Hunza Valley: Life in A Natural Paradise

Hunza Valley: Life in A Natural Paradise
© Asim Deb

Hunza (locally known as Burushaski) is a mountainous valley in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan, in the northern part of the country, bordering Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor and China’s Xinjiang region. Geographically, Hunza comprises three areas: Upper Hunza (Gojal), Central Hunza (Hunza Valley), and Lower Hunza (Shinaki).

From 1892 until August 1947, Hunza was a princely state within the subsidiary alliance system of British India; following India’s independence, it maintained a neutral political stance for three months before acceding to Pakistan in November 1947. Currently, Hunza is located in the northern part of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Its geographical boundaries are the Gilgit Agency to the south, the State of Nagar to the east, Xinjiang (China) to the northeast, and Afghanistan to the northwest. The capital was Baltit (also known as Karimabad); it is now in the Aliabad Tehsil of the Hunza-Nagar District in Pakistan. According to the 2023 census, the population of the Hunza Valley was approximately 65,497, primarily consisting of Nizari Ismailis belonging to the Shia branch of Islam. The spoken language is Burushaski.

Hunza Valley: A Natural Paradise
Nestled in the rugged northern terrains of Pakistan, the enchanting Hunza Valley has long been a beacon for adventurers, nature enthusiasts, and peace seekers from around the world. Located in Gilgit-Baltistan, Hunza is a breathtaking region that offers unparalleled views of the Himalayas and the Karakoram Range, showcasing some of the most pristine landscapes on Earth. The valley is celebrated not only for its natural beauty but also for its rich history, diverse culture, and the resilience of its people.

Geography and Landscape
Hunza Valley lies along the Hunza River and is surrounded by snow-capped mountains, lush-terraced fields, and vibrant cherry blossom trees. At an elevation of 2,438 meters (7,999 feet), the valley offers crisp, clean mountain air and a cool climate that contrasts sharply with the lowlands of Pakistan. One of the most iconic peaks visible from Hunza is Rakaposhi, which stands at 7,788 meters (25,551 feet), as well as Ultar Sar, Passu Cones, and Ladyfinger Peak. The valley itself is divided into three main regions: Upper Hunza (Gojal), Central Hunza, and Lower Hunza.

The Hunza Valley is situated along the banks of the Hunza River, surrounded by snow-capped mountain peaks, terraced green fields, and picturesque cherry blossom trees. Located at an altitude of 2,438 meters (7,999 feet) above sea level, the valley enjoys a cool, crisp mountain climate that is vastly different from the weather in the plains of Pakistan. Several towering peaks are visible from the Hunza Valley, such as Hunza Peak (20,571 feet), Rakaposhi (25,551 feet), and Ultar Sar (24,239 feet), Ladyfinger (Bublimating, 19,685 ft), Bojohagur Duanasir (24,045 ft), Distaghil Sar (25,869 ft), Diran (23,835 ft), Darmyani (19,980 ft), and others. In addition to these, there are approximately 20 more peaks in this small valley. It is extremely rare to find so many snow-capped Himalayan peaks concentrated in such a small area. Furthermore, the valley’s beauty is enhanced by numerous lakes, such as Attabad Lake, Borith Lake, Shimshal Lake, Hassanabad Lake, Naltar Lake, Rush Lake, Snow Lake, Kacheli Lake, and others.

It is claimed that the good health of the Hunza people stems from their wholesome diet, the pollution-free environment of the Himalayan highlands, drinking water rich in natural minerals like potassium, calcium, and iron, and the habit of bathing in ice-cold water year-round. The Hunzas consume a very limited diet yet engage in strenuous physical labor. Even when the valley is blanketed in snow during winter, they do not bathe in warm water. Researchers suggest that due to their unhurried and stress-free lifestyle, the Hunzas do not suffer from ailments associated with mental stress. The Hunza people live long, healthy lives primarily due to their proper dietary habits and lifestyle. This longevity is mentioned in James Hilton’s novel *Lost Horizon*, which later inspired a film adaptation by Frank Capra.

The Hunzas’ staple diet consists of barley, millet, and wheat flour—foods that help build physical strength. Their diet also includes abundant quantities of dried apricots, citrus fruits, nuts, beans, and corn. Apricots contain abundant amounts of amygdalin (Vitamin B-17), which is capable of preventing cancer and other diseases. Following ancient traditions, the Hunza people consume nothing but a drink made from powdered dried apricots for four months of the year. Due to living in a remote area, the Hunzas have to walk about 15 to 20 kilometers every day for various activities. Many researchers believe that apricots play a significant role in the longevity and vitality of the Hunza people. Their diet is low in butter, cheese, eggs, and milk, and the intake of meat is also very limited. Instead, their regular diet consists of various types of green vegetables, fruits, and flowers. They brew the leaves of a plant called *Tumuru*, which is rich in antioxidants and drink it like tea.

One of the best ways to experience the valley is to take the Karakoram Highway, which is considered one of the most scenic drives in the world. The road winds through the mountains, offering stunning views of the valley below. Along the way, travelers can stop at small villages to experience local culture and sample traditional food.

In the true sense, the Hunza Valley is a region largely unknown to the outside world. Perhaps the most astonishing fact is that the average life expectancy of its inhabitants is believed to be around 120 years. This remarkable longevity first came to light when an elderly woman arrived at an airport in England; her passport indicated an age that would have made her 150 years old at the time. Similarly, in 1984, an elderly man from Hunza named Syed Abdul Mabud arrived at London’s Heathrow Airport from Pakistan. His passport listed his year of birth as 1832, meaning he was 152 years old at the time. Thanks to immigration officers and the media, this story created a global sensation, and researchers began flocking to the Hunza Valley. This region of Pakistan remains far removed from the troubles of the outside world. According to local lore, women in this community can conceive and bear a child without complications well into their sixties, seventies, or even nineties.

বামদিকে ৯৬ বছরের বাবা, ডানদিকে ৭৮ বছরের ছেলে।

One more point; compared to the other communities in Pakistan, the people of the Hunza community are known for being far more refined in terms of education and culture.

The Brief History
According to historian Ahmad Hasan Dani, the Scythians of eastern Persia used the Karakoram route when invading Taxila in India. Carvings of horsemen and ibexes (a type of wild goat), along with inscriptions in the Kharoshti script, found on the ‘Sacred Rock’ of Hunza, mention Scythian and Pahlava rulers. Inscriptions from the Kushan era are also found on this rock, providing evidence of Scythian and Kushan dominance in the Hunza and Gilgit regions.

Around 997 AD, Hunza attempted to break away from the Gilgit Valley and form an independent state; however, it was not until the 15th century—with the establishment of the Ayash dynasty—that it fully separated, and the valley was divided into two rival neighboring states: Hunza (inhabiting the upper reaches of the basin) and Nagar. Conflict subsequently arose between these two states. Following the invasion of Kashmir by Mirza Haider Dughlat—a member of the Mughal dynasty—the ‘Mir’ (ruler) of Hunza established diplomatic relations with the Yarkand Khanate of Kashgaria. Even after Kashgaria came under Chinese control, he maintained this relationship by paying an annual tribute of 16 tolas of gold dust to the Chinese government in Yarkand. In exchange for this symbolic tribute, Hunza secured territorial rights in the Raskam Valley and grazing rights for livestock in the Taghdumbash Pamir region. For centuries, Hunza was an independent kingdom ruled by the Mir dynasty, whose rulers bore the title ‘Thum’. In 1761, China recognized it as a suzerain state. At one time, the rulers of Hunza claimed descent from the Greek emperor Alexander.

Following the establishment of British hegemony in South Asia, the princely state of Jammu and Kashmir was formed under the Treaty of Amritsar in 1846. In 1847, the Mir—the ruler of Hunza—acknowledged nominal allegiance to China. The last fully independent ruler, Mir Safdar Ali Khan (1886–1891), fled to China following a British invasion.

Towards the end of the 19th century, the British suspected Russia of establishing contact with the rulers of small states along Kashmir’s northern frontier. In 1888, the Russian Captain Bronislav Grombchevsky visited Hunza, and shortly thereafter, the British Captain Francis Younghusband visited the region. He remarked to the ruler, Safdar Ali Khan, that he was unfit to govern such a refined people as the Hunzas. The ‘Jangir-e-Lai’ war between the State of Nagar and the British Raj forces took place in the Nilt area from December 1 to December 23, 1891. In the Nilt Nala area (known as Jamila Mo Har), the people of Nagar put up fierce resistance against British forces under the leadership of their *Tham* (ruler), Azur Khan. Despite fighting for over 20 days, the Nagaris were ultimately defeated due to a lack of adequate weaponry; more than 100 Nagaris lost their lives in the conflict, and 127 were taken prisoner. On the other hand, four British officers and over 50 Dogra soldiers were killed on the British side. In 1891, Hunza acknowledged British suzerainty. The ruler—or ‘Mir’—of Hunza, Mir Safdar Ali Khan, fled to Kashgar in China. The British army installed his brother, Mir Muhammad Nazim Khan (1892–1938), as a puppet ruler of the Hunza Valley, while British officials stationed in the capital, Gilgit, effectively issued all orders. The British granted Nagar the status of a princely state within the subsidiary alliance system of India. Amidst the diplomatic uncertainty between India and Pakistan in 1947 following the Kashmir dispute, the Mir of Hunza agreed to accede to Pakistan after staging an uprising against India. Even after the rebellion against the Maharaja of Kashmir and the unconditional accession to Pakistan in 1948, the state retained its status as a princely state.

In the 1960s, the people protested against the Mir’s autocratic rule, demanding the abolition of the system of compulsory unpaid labor (‘begar’) and a reduction in taxes. In 1970, they organized a march towards Gilgit to press their demands upon the authorities; meanwhile, the ‘Scouts’ force was dispatched from Gilgit to confront them. When the Scouts opened fire on the protesters in the Chalt area, nine people were killed and many others injured. The leaders of the movement were imprisoned. Subsequently, on September 25, 1974, Pakistan’s Prime Minister Zulfikar Ali Bhutto abolished the states of Nagar and Hunza and released the prisoners, and established a system of democratic representation in the ‘Northern Areas Council’ (currently known as the Gilgit-Baltistan Assembly).

It is worth noting that during the reign of Maharaja Ranbir Singh of neighboring Jammu and Kashmir (mid-19th century), the Maharaja maintained a residence in Hunza. The Mir of Hunza was a loyal subject of the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir and regularly sent an annual tribute to the Jammu and Kashmir court until 1947. According to Emma Nicholson, “all evidence points to the fact that in 1877, the Gilgit and Baltistan regions were part of Jammu and Kashmir.” They were under the sovereignty of the Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir and remained under that princely rule until the date of their “full” accession to the new authority of India on October 26, 1947. Later, on November 3, 1947, the then-ruler Mohammad Jamal Khan announced their accession to Pakistan.

The Hunza Valley is also mentioned in the ancient Mahabharata. During the Mahajanapada period of ancient India, the region was under the rule of the ancient Indian kingdoms, mainly Kapisa, Gandhara, and possibly Magadha. Buddhism also spread to the Hunza Valley in the late 7th century. There are several Buddhist archaeological examples, such as the Sacred Rock of Hunza. While the Hunza Valley was central to the trade routes in the Central Asian subcontinent, at that time, Hunza provided refuge to wandering Buddhist monks and played a pivotal role in the propagation of Buddhism across this region of Asia.

The ‘Sacred Rocks’, or ‘Haldeikish’ are situated between the Hunza River and the Karakoram Highway, near the town of Karimabad in the Hunza Valley and in the vicinity of the UNESCO-listed village of Ganish. The rock is 180 meters in length and 9 meters at their highest point. These sacred Rocks of Hunza are one of the earliest sites of Petroglyphs along the ancient silk route.

Haldeikish with its thousands of petroglyphs in Bactrian, Sogdian, Kharosht, Tibetan, Chinese and Brahmi were written by the Silk Route travellers. These petroglyphs show the diverse cultural exchange that once passed through the Hunza region and help us to understand the history of this entire region from the first millennium CE. The boulders are sign posted from I to IV each with a brief description of its petroglyph engravings. The rocks were once able to be approached by well-worn stone steps and contained a series of Buddhist cave shelters but with this mountainous area’s extreme weather and the ravages of time they have fallen with only a few being preserved.

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